Oslo and the North

I start with an eternal apology to Anna for suggesting the ‘r’ should be removed from Norway.  I have known for a long time that Norway is very special.  I recall our friend Helen Wilson saying she thought Norway was ‘heaven’ when I was about 17 years old.  In my wedding speech I thanked our Norwegian hosts for the wonderful welcome we had received.  I noted how spoilt we were by people’s willingness to use their faultless English to keep us involved.  I reflected that this 'easy life' was likely to short lived because when we meet again in heaven, given my appraisal of our surroundings, we will be speaking Norwegian, what’s more, Norwegian with a northern dialect. 

Leaving Oslo City Hall Behind on the way to the Museums

Margaret in Oslo Habour

Oslo.  We got out of the R10 train to Drammen.  The announcer informed us the city is called 'Oshlo', not Oslo.  We got out at 'Nationaltheatret'.    This station is extraordinary, and a complete contrast to the other city station, Oslo Central.  It is a vast dark underground chasm of a station, with no advertising hoardings at all.  I liked its barren forgotten quality.  We followed the escalators, with the intriguing parallel funicular lift to one side, right up to the surface.  My map did not indicate where the exit was and we set off overshooting our street.  Mercifully, a kind lady (perfect English at the ready) reassured us that we were not far from our destination.  When we got to the apartment, I read the instructions more clearly, and discovered that the keys were located one km away on the other side of the palace park (a mini St James Park).  We left the girls in a covered doorway- had another chat with another Oslo resident who showed us the route to our keys on her mobile phone, and set off dodging the marching palace guard to our destination.  The keys were handover by a young woman who told us about her quite village upbringing, and how she had moved to the big city 2 years ago to live with her aunt.  She had only visited Vigoland Park and knew nothing else about the city. 

On the evening of day one we walked by the harbour and saw it in it cowering in the light rain. 

In the morning we visited the fort.  This is a national monument with more armed guards.  The view from the battlements was obliterated by a cruise liner moored by the ancient walls.  Within minutes, foreign forces had invaded.  Sheer numbers overwhelmed the guards.  In vain they waved and shouted trying to keep the marauding hoards away from the national treasure.  Shoe on other foot I thought to myself.

We moved on to see the amazing Opera House; perhaps an attempt to compete with Sydney.  Maybe not as striking, but it’s certainly more homely.  Slabs of beautiful white marble slope up to create a delightful angular playground for all.  Anna has played there many times.  From it I saw a curious tent like structure near to a café.  I wondered what it could be, and realised that it might be a nod to the famous cod.  I have seen similar structures covered in drying cod. 

From the Opera House, we examined the City Hall.  Again a very striking and unique building.  The workmanship is impressive, but perhaps it is dated.  Another 1950’s examples that came to mind was Coventry Cathedral. 

A beautiful 1500 year old ship

The Stave Church

Next we crossed on the ferry to the museums at Byggtoy.  A short walk with a parade of tourists took us to the Viking ships Museum.  Three Viking ships dug out on their burial mounts after perhaps 1500 years are beautifully and timelessly displayed.  Two are skilfully repaired to make them look as if they could be launched again today.  The third, the most interesting to archaeologists, is as it was when removed from the mud, with sheep’s wool and tar packed between each clinker.  The building is like a cruciform church, with balconies positioned to help the crush of visitors see into the boats.  I felt I was the only person there.  The graceful boats where help with reverence, like other iconic machines, such as the Supermarine Spitfire, or a Rolls Royce Silver Shadow.  Other objects of interest where the main items packed into the boats, including sleighs, curious objects called rattles and barrels of pickled fish.  We then changed museum and visited the open air folk museum.  Apparently there is a similar museum in Stockholm, where similar ancient wooden houses where taken from each side of the boarder to their respective sites of homage. 

Caving on the doorway

What about a goat for the roof

Dancing (no TV)

Our guides were dressed in tradition costume.  This only exists in Wales and Scotland and has no existence in England.  We saw the Stave Church, a building with a 13^th century core, and restored exterior (1856).  This church felt orthodox.  It looked orthodox.  We entered through a narrow slit of a door into a dark interior.  As we became accustomed to the dark, one could see it was painted from bottom to top in colourful biblical scenes.  I thought of Ethiopia, or Armenia.

It was interesting to see that the general ancient log house seemed to be repeated throughout the villages on the site.  Clay floor- two large built in beds, fireplace in the centre with open central chimney; built in benches.  Barns had a bridge up to the first floor, and this you can see all over Norway. 

Vigeland

We walked round the edge of the Oslo fiord and then headed off for Vigeland Park.  This is an extraordinary park featuring the work of Gustave Vigeland.  He has created hundreds of sculptures of human figures, all ages, mixed in every respect, including sexuality.  All the arrangements depict human relationships and emotions.  They are brilliant.  I thought of Anthony Gormley, and is idea of using himself to depict everything he wants to say.  “You cannot leave your body” – “everything I want to say has to come out of me”.  But here I saw a great understanding of the human condition.  There are even four great statues of figure wrestling and hugging dragons.  I particularly liked the two girls, one in front, confident, one behind timorous, ‘the same girl’ I thought. 

In the evening, the sun was shining.  Oslo water front was transformed and bustling.  Restaurants were packed.  It felt like a different place for the night before.

On Wednesday morning, before our flight to Bardufoss, I managed to fit in a trip to the Historical Museum where I saw hundreds of Viking swords, many bent into ‘s’ shapes.  I also saw the only Viking helmet every found (yes no horns), and the hammer Thor pendants, soon to become crucifixes.  I also saw another amazing interior of a Stave church.

I also visited a beautiful cemetery and saw the famous graves of Edvard Munch, and Henrik Ibsen.

The Wedding

Anna is our priceless treasure,
We love her- she loves us in equal measure.
Her faithfulness and trust is like the never setting sun,
She is always creative, and just wants to have fun.
Anna's life changed, as at the pressing of a button,
When she first visited friends in Brostadbotn.
Everything about this place she began to adore,
After a chance meeting on a fiord, this included Herr Ivan Dalgard.
Now it's Ivan, his boys, and his house, that keeps her from us I fear,
If you want to see Anna, you'll have to come and see her here.

The Wedding Party

Holly, Gabriel and Nathanial.

Ben and Andrew

Picnic at Steinora

My girls in their natural environment.